Ceramic knobs in the attic
White or brown porcelain knobs holding single conductors in open air, with tubes where wire passes through joists, is the definition of the system. If you see it in the attic, it is almost certainly in the walls too.
If you have looked in the attic and seen white ceramic knobs with black wire strung between them, you have knob and tube. It was good work for 1930, and it has no equipment ground, brittle insulation, and a hard rule against being buried in insulation. Gale Electric replaces it in older homes around Kennewick, Pasco, Prosser, and Benton City, one circuit at a time or all at once.
White or brown porcelain knobs holding single conductors in open air, with tubes where wire passes through joists, is the definition of the system. If you see it in the attic, it is almost certainly in the walls too.
Knob and tube is a two wire system with no equipment grounding conductor. Every receptacle on it is ungrounded, regardless of whether somebody has put three prong devices on the wall.
Original splices were soldered in open air and taped, not made inside a junction box. Those splices are still out there in attics and wall cavities, aging without anyone looking at them.
Knob and tube depends on open air to shed heat, and NEC 394.12 prohibits it in insulated spaces. Blown in attic insulation added during a weatherization project puts the circuit in a condition the wiring method was never rated for.
Many Washington carriers will not write or renew a policy on active knob and tube. Some accept documentation that it has been disconnected and replaced, which is why a permitted job with an inspection record matters.
The system was installed correctly for the load of its era: a few lights and a radio. The conductors were rubber insulated with a cloth braid, run in open air where heat could dissipate, and spliced with solder. Ninety years later the rubber has hardened and cracked, particularly near light fixtures and in attics that hit 140 degrees every Tri-Cities summer. Once insulation crumbles at a termination, bare conductor sits inside a box or against a joist.
The second issue is what got added later. Knob and tube circuits routinely have modern branches spliced into them, feeding rooms and appliances they were never sized for. There is no equipment ground anywhere in the system, so a fault in an appliance has no designed path back to the panel. Blown in insulation added during a weatherization retrofit compounds it by trapping heat around conductors that were meant to sit in open air.
Knob and tube is mostly found in homes built before roughly 1945, which in this area means older neighborhoods in Kennewick and Pasco, farmhouses around Prosser and Benton City, and scattered pre war houses elsewhere. Richland is a different story. Most of the Hanford era housing built from 1943 through the early 1950s was wired with early cable rather than knob and tube, but that early cable often has no equipment ground and cloth insulation that is aging the same way.
That distinction matters when you are quoting a job. A Richland alphabet house may not need knob and tube removal and still need rewiring for the same underlying reason. Kyle inspects the attic, the crawlspace, the panel, and a sample of device boxes before saying which system you actually have. Guessing from the year built is how homeowners end up paying for the wrong scope, and it is a quick thing to check in person.
Knob and tube is not repaired. Each circuit is replaced with new NM-B cable containing an equipment ground, run from the panel to new or reused boxes at every device. Old conductors are disconnected at both ends and removed where they are accessible. Knobs and tubes buried in framing are typically left in place because pulling them causes more damage than they are worth, and they carry nothing once the circuit is dead.
Scope is driven by what is still energized. Many houses have partial knob and tube, where a 1970s remodel replaced the kitchen and the original circuits still feed the bedrooms and hallway lights. In that case only the live legacy circuits get replaced, which costs a fraction of a full rewire. Kyle traces every circuit at the panel and gives you a written list of what is knob and tube, what is not, and what each portion costs.
Carriers in Washington ask about knob and tube specifically, and the answer they usually want is that it has been removed from service by a licensed electrician under permit. That means the paperwork matters as much as the wire. Gale Electric pulls the permit under Washington license GALEEEL790O7 and schedules both the rough in and the final inspection, so you finish with an inspection record you can hand to your agent.
Permitting runs through Washington L&I in most of Benton and Franklin County, and through the City of Richland for addresses inside city limits, depending on jurisdiction. The rough in inspection happens while the new cable is still exposed, which sets the schedule for any patching or insulation work that follows. If you are combining this with attic insulation, sequence the electrical first. Blowing insulation over a circuit that has not been inspected means pulling it back out.
Kyle traces what is still energized on knob and tube versus what has already been replaced, checks the attic and crawlspace, and produces a written scope with a per circuit breakdown.
The permit is filed, then new grounded cable is run from the panel to each device location through attic, crawlspace, and wall cavities, with access openings kept small and consistent.
The inspector reviews the new work while it is open. Legacy conductors are disconnected at both ends and removed wherever they are accessible.
Grounded receptacles, switches, and fixtures go in, the panel directory is updated, the final inspection closes the permit, and you get documentation for your insurer.

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